Part 5 in my Master Bathroom Project series is all about paint. I would say that this has been the most fun (and easiest) part of the series thus far. (If you haven't read up on our progress thus far, check out: Part 1-The Design, Part 2- Removing the Mirror, Part 3- Refinishing the Cabinets, and Part 4-Wiring for New Lighting.)
Paint is the simplest and most cost-effective transformation of a space. For our master bath, we decided to keep the paint colors neutral and add some dimension by using two paint colors. We used satin or semi-gloss paint because bathrooms have a high moister rate, and the extra protection is needed to prevent peeling.
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| Finished product: Two-tone paint |
DIY(-ing)? Here's how we made the dramatic change in a few of easy steps!
SUPPLIES:
- 1 Quart Glidden Semi Gloss Onyx Black Paint
- 1 Gallon Glidden Semi Gloss Seal Gray Paint
- Blue Tape
- Drop cloth
- 1 Roller Brush
- 2 Paint Brushes
- 1 Edge Painter
- Paint Pan
- Ruler/Measuring Tape
- (Optional) Laser leveler
DIY STEPS
Time frame: a day (8-12 hours)
FYI: If you have a non-white or non-cream type paint on your walls currently, you may have to use a primer prior to applying your new paint. It really depends on what's already on your wall and what you plan to put on your wall. If you need a primer, that would happen before step 3.
Tape the edges, ceilings, door frames, and other areas where the walls meet surfaces you don't want covered in paint. This is will help minimize the amount of paint that gets on other surfaces adjacent to the walls being painted. Press down firmly on the tape to minimize the amount of paint that leaks through. We used standard blue painter's tape, but paint still leaked through. (I think Frog Tape may be the best. We will give that a try the next time.)
FYI: If you have a non-white or non-cream type paint on your walls currently, you may have to use a primer prior to applying your new paint. It really depends on what's already on your wall and what you plan to put on your wall. If you need a primer, that would happen before step 3.
1. Protect surfaces that shouldn't be painted.
2. Measure where the dividing line is between the the two paints and write it down.
We wrote down the measurements on the walls themselves where the black paint was intended to go. We also put little tick marks on the walls in pencil for a visual indication of where the gray color stopped and where the black color began. These markers are just a visual indicator of how far you need to paint the first color. They shouldn't be used to create your tape line!
3. Start painting the lighter color.
Pour some paint into the paint pan, coat your roller in the paint, and paint away! For this step, it doesn't really matter if the lighter color gets on the spaces where the darker color goes because the darker color will cover it up. This is why it is important to start with the lighter color first. Do make sure you know where the darker paint is supposed to start (Step 2), and paint well below that line to ensure that there are no gaps. |
| Applying the gray. Using a lot of force. |
4. Apply second coat.
By the time you finish the first coat on every wall, the paint should be dry enough to apply the second coat. |
| That's a lot of paint! |
5. Paint the edges.
Use a brush (if you have a steady enough hand) and/or a edge painter to tackle the corners and edges. We used a Point'N Paint "As Seen on TV" edge painter. I know what you are thinking. "Really? As seen on TV?" Well, we won it at a baby shower and it works relatively well if you don't use the pole tool, don't apply too much paint, or press down too hard. There are plenty of other edge painters out there as well, so feel free to shop around. |
| Getting the corners with a brush. |
6. Mark out dividing line.
After the paint has fully dried, it's time to mark out the dividing line so that you can paint the darker color on a straight line. Use your ruler, measuring tape, and/or laser leveler to begin to apply a straight line of painter's tape to paint the black line. Make sure you are consistent with whether you are using the bottom or top of the tape as your dividing line line. Again, press down firmly on the tape. |
| Measuring the dividing line between the gray and the black. There were many horizontal ticks on the wall allowing us to get a straight line with the blue tape. |
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| Measured and taped. Success. |
7. Repeat steps 3-5 with your dark paint.
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| Painting the black. I ended up using the Point N Paint tool (instead of a roller brush) for the entire area. |
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| Touching up the edges with black. |
8. Remove tape.
After the dark paint has fully dried, remove the painter's tape. If you see any of your previous wall color showing through or if some of the dark paint bled through the tape, you may have to do some paint touch-ups. |
| Finally done! Removing the tape. |
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| Tada! Straight line! |
TOTAL COST: $84 (or $54 w/o optional supplies)
- 1 quart of Glidden satin paint (black onyx) ~$12
- 1 gallon of Glidden satin paint (seal gray) ~$26
- 1 Painting Kit (includes pan, rollers, brushes, etc) ~$10
- 1 Roll of Blue Tape ~$6
- 1 Paint Edger ~$15 (optional)
- 1 Laser Level ~$15 (optional)
Well there you have it! We transformed our bathroom and it didn't take a lot of time or money, especially since we already had all of the materials except for the paint itself. This is the great thing about many home projects; you can reuse supplies from previous projects to your hearts delight. As I mentioned above, I would definitely use Frog Tape instead of blue tape. It should do a much better job at masking the paint.
We are getting closer and closer to the completion of our master bathroom remodel project! The next task is adding the new framed the mirrors. This is going to be a hard one.
Brace yourselves!
{Rashida}
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